Another memorable day of trekking in the Seriana Valley, in the Orobie Alps: from Valbondione, we climbed to the Coca Refuge and Lake Coca; we then crossed to the Curò Hut, before returning to Valbondione, completing a long but stunning loop.

Trekking: Coca and Curò Refuges, loop from Valbondione (Val Seriana, Orobie)

The hike I'm about to describe got off to a fantastic start.

To avoid the likely Sunday morning traffic heading to the upper Seriana Valley, I planned ahead and set off late Saturday afternoon (June 6, 2026), sleeping at Grumetti, Valbondione, in my campervan. It was a perfect choice, especially since it was wonderful to wake up Sunday morning under the blue sky and the mountains of the valley, ready to hike. I had set my alarm for 6:30 AM, but in reality, I was awakened around 5:00 AM by the first mountain enthusiasts, who had arrived to begin their hike/ascent, at first daylight.

The trails to Rifugio Coca and Rifugiò Curò, as well as to the surrounding peaks, start from Grumetti, one of the last hamlets of Valbondione, reachable by car. From June 1st to October 31st, almost all parking in the area is paid, with a "scratch and park" ticket system. Tickets can be purchased at local bars, including the last one at the Grumetti parking lot (as I did). They can also be purchased online (valseriana.eu).

A daily ticket costs € 5, with a discount for multi-day tickets (updated: 2026).

I should point out that there is also an autocaravan parking area near the Valbondione sports field, with toilets and showers.

As mentioned, once I woke up, after a hearty breakfast, I put on my hiking boots and took trail 301A, which then intersects with trail 301, to climb, first to the Coca Hut.

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The Coca Refuge can be seen high up, perched on a rocky outcrop, from the Grumetti parking lot. Typically, the sight of the refuge you're heading to is heartening. In this case, it generates a moment of apprehension due to the elevation gain to be covered in just a few kilometers. But the desire to conquer this fascinating destination prevails, especially since the rugged valley through which the 301 ascends, surrounded by beautiful waterfalls and mountains, immediately offers a stunning view.

After an initial stretch through the woods, the trail immediately begins to climb steeply, with repeated rocky outcrops to overcome, although a clever and endless series of switchbacks eases the gradient a bit. However, there's little to say: in about 3.8 km, you'll have to overcome about 1,000 meters of elevation gain (see our map below).

The signage at Grumetti indicates approximately 2 hours and 40 minutes to reach the Coca Refuge. On Sunday, I woke up feeling refreshed, full of energy, and well trained. I set off at 8:10 a.m. and took advantage of the cooler hours of the day to begin walking. Including a few photo stops, it took me about 2 hours and 15 minutes to reach the Coca Refuge.

After reaching 1,700 meters above sea level, you exit the woods, cross a stream on a small stone bridge, climb some concrete steps, and shortly after, reach a hydraulic structure that serves as a sedimentation tank for the waters of the Coca stream. Here, I began to encounter the first ibex (I'll later lose count of how many I spotted). The refuge, now increasingly close and visible above your head, is reached with a final effort.

Resisting the temptation of the cake-like smell wafting from inside the refuge, and contenting myself with a drink of fresh water from the spring outside the refuge and a banana, I considered my options for continuing my hike: climbing to small Lake Coca, about 200 meters higher, or set out for the crossing to Rifugio Curò (3.5 hours)? It was a difficult choice, and in fact, in the end, I opted for both! I first ascended to Lake Coca via trail 323, and then embarked on the crossing, with 303.

From Rifugio Coca, trail 323 begins to climb at a moderate gradient and soon reaches a beautiful plain (Coca valley), where the Coca stream meanders. Here, I began to be surrounded by magnificent ibex: adult males and females, and recently born juveniles. The adults are moulting right now, shedding their thick winter fur.

A short, steep section, with some possible snowfields requiring caution, separates the plain from the Coca Lake above (2,108 meters, about 5 km from the start). The lake appears clear and blue after passing a group of boulders, where the outflowing stream begins. Here, there is a clear sign, painted on a boulder, as well as a signpost highlighting the detour—to the east—to the "Bocchetta dei Camosci", at an altitude of 2,719 meters. Beyond this, you descend toward the Rifufio Curò, continuing along trail 323 (a high traverse trail between Coca and Curò). From the Bocchetta, you can also reach the summit of Peak Coca (3,050 meters) via the southeast ridge (mountaineering itinerary—grade III).

I stopped for a moment at the lake to admire its beauty and eat half a sandwich. The lake lies in what's known as the Conca dei Giganti (Giants' Basin), surrounded by the highest peaks of the Orobie Alps, including, in addition to Coca, Redorta, Punta di Scais, and Torrione Curò, all of which exceed 3,000 meters, as well as other peaks approaching that altitude.

Meanwhile, I began to ponder what to do, watching other hikers ascending and descending trail 323 to Bocchetta dei Camosci. Having left early, I still had several hours to spare, but I considered that I didn't have the legs to climb 1,700 meters of elevation to reach Bocchetta and then descend to Curò. The forecast also predicted possible rain in the afternoon.

Studying the tracks on Komoot (a truly invaluable and well-designed hiking app), I realized that, retracing my steps halfway across the plain below the lake, a trail was indicated that shortly after rejoins trail 303 coming directly from the Coca Refuge, heading towards the Curò Refuge (lower traverse trail ), passing thorough the Corno Pass (2,222 meters) and the Sponda Arsena (2,350 meters). So I couldn't resist exploring this route too (marked EE, that means for experienced hikers), to see the Curò area and complete a loop back to Valbondione.

The trail halfway across the plain, honestly, isn't easy to find. I trusted Komoot, and it didn't disappoint me (Mapy.com also shows it). If you'd like to follow my route, just follow my track on the map above.

Approximately where the Coca stream meets another branch that flows down the left bank, turn northeast. At the point where you need to turn, you'll actually notice some old, metal broken poles, which probably once held signs indicating the detour.

Then you cross the Coca stream, hopping over the exposed rocks, and even as you wade across it, you'll begin to spot old white paint markings here and there on the boulders beyond the stream, indicating the trail to follow. At first, on the plain, the trail is rather faint, and I feared I might lose the track, but, in fact, as you climb the slope above, to the east, the trail becomes quite clear. And then there are the ibex droppings, confirming that you're on a well known path...! 300 meters after the stream (6 km total from the start), however, the trail joins the path 303, coming from the Coca Refuge, near some hollows covered with thick meadows. From here, the trail is unmistakable, confirmed by the classic red and white painted trail markers.

The environment now becomes wilder. You no longer encounter the many hikers who climb to the Refuge and Lake Coca, but only a few walkers with a spirit of exploration. The trail is rightly designated EE, due to its length (3-3.5 hours from Coca to Curò), some slightly exposed sections, and the small steep channel equipped with chains, on scree, just before reaching the Sponda Arsena (from the south side). But there are no extreme technical or mountaineering difficulties, at least for those accustomed to walking in high mountains.

The trail continues to gradually gain altitude, with some flat sections, and crosses several valleys, offering breathtaking views of the Rifugio Coca area, of Valbondione, 1,000 meters below, and the Presolana peak. In front of this last peak, you can see the crest of Monte Sasna, which I climbed a few weeks ago from Lizzola, and the summit of Pizzo Recastello, to the east.

Ahead, the top of Pizzo Corno soon appears, and immediately to the left, you can glimpse the Corno Pass, towards which the trail is leading.

The Corno Pass, which I reached after about 5 hours of walking from the start (7.4 km), is a very scenic spot, offering views of both the Rifugio Coca and the Rifugio Curò areas, as well as Lake Barbellino, whose turquoise outline appears near the Curò refuge. The view of the Curò might reassure you, but don't be fooled, as I was, by hastily studying the route: from the 2,222-meter Corno pass, you have to climb to the 2,350-meter high Sponda Arsena, with some sections, as mentioned, still steep and equipped.

In any case, I reached the Sponda Arsena still in good condition (about 2 hours from the Coca Valley), and satisfied with having climbed a full 1,500 meters elevation gain!

It's the descent to the Barbellino dam that really killed me... In fact, this section of the trail is very uneven, with continuous boulders of a reasonable height, scattered rocks here and there, and it's very steep. My legs suffered a bit, and I went slower to avoid overstressing my aging knees. In short, it took me 1.5 hours to reach the dam, and then to the Curò Refuge. So, do your reasoning, taking your abilities into account.

However, upon reaching the Barbellino dam plateau, I was met with the spectacle of ibex climbing the dam's sub-vertical face, reaching frightening heigths, to lick the saltpeter seeping from the concrete (they are fond of salt, like all goats).

A final stretch of the trail, wide, though at times very exposed, skirts the Barbellino dam from the south, and finally leads to the Curò Refuge.

For a few hours, I'd been dreaming of a half pint of beer, which I promptly ordered at the refuge bar, to sip shortly after, comfortably seated at the outdoor tables. I rested and replenished my lost fluids and salts, like an ibex!

Meanwhile, bottles of sparkling wine were passing around me...

But then, a very friendly guy from Bergamo sat down at my table, "differently young" like me, who had just completerd a 2,000-meter elevation gain tour on a mountain bike. He drank a good beer, too, but also received a magnificent giant sandwich, with flavorful local ham and cheese... I rushed back into the refuge and asked the girl at the counter, "I want a sandwich like his!"

And I must say, the beer and sandwich helped me regain some of the energy I'd spent.

At 4:30 PM, reluctantly, I began the descent back to Grumetti, Valbondione. I would have loved to stay and chat in pleasant company, and perhaps even stayed a few more days in this mountainous area.

From the Curò Refuge, or the Barbellino Refuge, just a little further on, there are many interesting hikes to choose from, including ascents to Pizzo Recastello, Pizzo Tre Confini, Monte Gleno, Monte Torena, and Pizzo del Diavolo di Malgina. In short, you're spoiled for choice.

The trail that descends (or ascends) from Curò to Grumetti (305 and 305 B) is wide, initially carved into the rock face, and descends very gradually to the valley, along a fairly long but scenic route. The section below the Curò cable car valley station is even accessible to vehicles and passes through a beautiful forest that provides shade in the summer. You can also detour to the hamlet of Maslana, taking trail 332, and pass beneath several waterfalls.

I continued straight and arrived at my van at 6:00 PM, after a good 10 hours of hiking, tired but immensely satisfied.

I'm now in love with the Orobie Alps, and I'll be back for more serious hikes soon.

Enjoy your hike. Fabio

Click here for the complete photo collection of the excursion